The very first diamonds were found in India and kept as loose unpolished stones. They were considered sacred objects that were believed to have possessed magical powers. Not until the 11th century were diamonds worn in jewelry but still in an uncut form. Initially there was the point cut, which followed the natural shape of the diamond. Diamonds were very rare and were only worn by kings and queens. The table cut was the first major faceting technique to be used. Followed by the step cut.
Old mine cut diamonds, also known as a cushion cuts, are basically the great-grandfathers of modern brilliant cuts.
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Developed in 18th century Europe, these cuts were not round but had a slightly curved edge which formed a soft square. They were made with a variety of facet patterns but always with a small table, high crown, and larger culet, giving them an architectural look.
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In the mid 18th century King Louis XV of France commissioned his court jeweler to create a diamond cut to reflect the shape of the mouth of his mistress Madame de Pompadour! Invention of the bruting machine, steam-driven brutting machine, and motorized saw in the late s revolutionized diamond cutting.
In the mid to late 19th century the official diamond rush began with the discovery mines in South Africa. The ancient craft of diamond cutting had emerged as a modern industry. This diamond is one of the very first patented diamond cuts in the world.
Be careful, often people ask for assr cuts they are just getting square emerald cuts. The corners are cropped which give the shape an octagonal appearance. Assr cut diamonds from the s and s are very rare.
Diamond engagement rings gained in popularity during the Art Deco era and the round old European cut diamond was the favorite. Old european cuts have a round girdle, meaning they appear round from the top view as opposed to the earlier old mine cut which had a more squared off top view.
Notice the culet in the diagram below. Instead of coming to a perfect point, it is cut straight across so that it is flat at the bottom. Old European cut diamonds have facets that are thick triangular blocks as opposed to modern round brilliant cuts which have thinner facets.
The term emerald cut was born at this time and replaced the earlier table cut and step cuts.
Emerald cut diamonds have a dramatic hall of mirrors effect. Descended from the step cut, emerald cuts were standardized in the s. The step cut emerged as one of the first faceted diamond cuts, third in line after the point cut and the table cut.
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In the step cut the shape of the rough diamond usually dictated the position and placement of the facets, allowing to maximize the carat weight of the final gem. Usually these had larger crowns and smaller tables.
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